Història

Crònica des d’Istanbul

Miguel Grajales, gestor cultural de l’Institut Cervantes a Istanbul, és un veterà de la UOC: graduat en Documentació, màster de Gestió Cultural, professor col·laborador de Món Islàmic i, ara mateix, estudiant del Màster d’Humanitats. Des de la històrica ciutat turca, amb un peu a Europa i l’altre a Àsia, va ser testimoni involuntari del recent intent de cop d’estat militar i de la reacció posterior del president Recep Tayyip Erdoğan. Aprofitem l’avinentesa per entrevistar-lo.

Com vas assabentar-te de què alguna cosa estava passant ? Com t’informaves ? Com vas seguir els esdeveniments ?

La veritat és que em vaig assabentar pel meu cunyat, que viu a Egipte i que em va preguntar si estava bé, si passava alguna cosa. Suposo que la notícia va sortir en algun mitjà i per això em va escriure. Prova de la celeritat de les notícies al món actual! Jo estava a casa treballant (acabant un treball de la UOC precisament) i no vaig parar atenció als sorolls que venien del carrer. El soroll d’avions a la zona on visc és força freqüent i també és força usual veure helicòpters -privats o de la polícia- al cel d’Istanbul. Un cop alertat, vaig començar a buscar notícies per internet. Les xarxes socials a Turquia estan força controlades i ja en aquell moment havien caigut les principals. La majoria de diaris i cadenes de ràdio i televisió estan en mans d’Erdogan i del seu complex econòmic i mediàtic, així que tampoc no eren fonts totalment de fiar. Per tant vaig haver de seguir les notícies per fonts no turques. Diaris espanyols, anglesos i nord-americans i cadenes àrabs. Val a dir que internet va funcionar força bé tota la nit. Companys i amics de Catalunya m’anaven retransmetent el que deien els mitjans allà i jo intentava contrastar aquelles notícies. Sobretot seguia la dels corresponsals a Istanbul, molts dels quals conec personalment i sé que treballen bé i busquen fonts de confiança. Durant tota la nit va haver moltes notícies i rumors (que si Erdogan havia fugit del país i demanat asil a Alemanya o Iran, que si havien bombardejat) i un tenia una sensació d’estar una mica perdut, sobresaturat. Ara, en veure les imatges de la gent al pont (recordo, a tocar de casa), cada cop més nombrosa, vaig dir que l’única sortida per al cop era un bany de sang com a Egipte.

A banda d’Internet va ser una nit de balcons i finestres, mirant com passaven alguns cotxes i peatons tímidament primer, com si no passés res, i després en més nombre, molts dels quals anaven cap al pont (que és a un parell de quilòmetre de casa meva). El que més em va sobtat de tot és el soroll que poden fer les armes. El soroll dels trets que venien del pont -i que podia veure per televisió- se sentien com si fossin a la cantonada.

 

T’ha sorprès l’intent de cop d’estat ? Hi havia tensió prèvia a la societat turca ?

Al començament si que sobta veure en titulars “Intent de cop d’Estat”. Però la societat turca estava -i està- molt polaritzada per les polítiques i les actituds d’Erdogan. La seva prentensió de fundar una república presidencialista per acaparar tot el poder no és ben vista en molts sectors. Fins i tot gent de caire i temperament moderat últimament perdia la serenitat quan parlava de política. Així que per a alguns era una cosa que hom podia esperar.

 

20160718_161031Com es desperta el dia després la teva ciutat ? Quina creus que pot ser l’evolució immediata ?

Dissabte ja van obrir molts comerços i botigues, diumenge més i avui dilluns gairebé tot estava obert. A més avui el transport a la ciutat ha estat gratis, una mesura suposo per animar a la gent a sortir. Malgat tot encara hi ha força tensió. Els contraris veuen venir ara la repressió del cercle d’Erdogan i una -per ells- segura involució. En qualsevol cas, sembla clar que Erdogan ha sabut aprofitar l’ocasió per reforçar el seu poder amb l’ajut d’una part de la població que literalement l’adora. Una imatge curiosa: a l’antic Centre Cultural Atatürk (un establiment cultural tipus soviètic, tancat fa anys per reformes que no s’han encetat mai, a la plaça Taksim) durant les revoltes del parc Gezi hi havia una enorme imatge d’Atatǘrk que va estar penjada força temps després de les revoltes i, una nit, la van despenjar en silenci. Avui, hi havia dues fotos d’Erdogan

Com sempre passa, i més encara aquí on les fonts d’informació estan molt esbiaixades, hi ha molts rumors sobre el que passa o passarà els propers dies (que si s’està preparant un segon cop d’estat, que si els partidaris d’Erdogan estan sent armats per formar una mena de milícia, etc.). Això augmenta la confusió i l’angoixa de molta gent. Els centres culturals han cancel·lat moltes de les seves activitats i cursos, entre altres raons perquè no esperaven que assistís molt de públic.

 

Segueix sent Turquia una bona destinació turística, de negocis o de feina ? Com creus que incidirà aquesta inestabilitat política ?

Turquia és un destí turístic fantàstic, amb una riquesa arqueològica i cultural com hi ha poques al món. Ara bé, la sensació d’inseguretat ha augmentat molt en els últims mesos i sobretot en les últimes setmanes -atemptat a l’aeroport i cop d’estat-. La crisi diplomàtica amb Rússia ha fet caure el nombre de visitants d’aquell país i per primer cop a penes es veuen creuers al port de la ciutat. Penso que el gran problema serà l’econòmic. La divisa turca ha perdut força terreny amb el dòlar i l’euro, ja des de començament d’any. I els darrers esdeveniments han accelerat la devallada. El govern pot intervenir per tal de frenar-la però perdent reserves. Fins ara han pogut bandejar la crisi jugant amb el tipus de canvi de la seva moneda, però crec que no podran continuar fent-lo molt de temps més sense repercusions per a una població que viu també en una bombolla de crèdit. En qualsevol cas, els turcs -diuen- estan acostumats a viure en crisi permanent.

 

Què hi fas a Turquia ?

Visc a Turquia des de 2008. Hi treballo a l’Institut Cervantes com a gestor cultural. Aquest any ha estat una mica mogut perquè per temes de feina i família he hagut de passar temporades a Algèria i Egipte. Justament havia tornat d’una d’aquestes estades a Istanbul el dia abans del cop d’Estat.

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